.great smoky mtns.

I went to visit family in the great smoky mountains after 26 years. I found the smoky mountains to be even more beautiful that I remembered/imagined.

As we were driving into the national park engulfed by the thick electric green foliage I saw a monarch butterfly outside of the window and then another and then another. I think I counted 8 butterflies welcoming - guiding us to the mountains. My Nana always loved monarch butterflies. I wondered if the butterflies always greeted her to the mountains like this, maybe this is how she fell in love with them. Maybe this was the way I knew I was there - in the land where Nana was raised and always held so tight in her heart even after 60 some years in Washington. She always was a Tennessee mountain girl.

Such a beautiful moment.

.memphis city guide.

I spent 3 weeks in Memphis and this is the list of must sees, eats, and dos in the city of blues and bbq...

FOOD

Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken

There are a few locations in Memphis I went to the downtown one and just a heads up be ready to wait (but it's totally worth it!!). A simple restaurant where the hardest decision you have to make is how many pieces of chicken and if you want light or dark meat. It's straight up southern. Disclaimer: our waitress told us she gain 26 pounds after working there a year and her dog gained 10 pounds. It's THAT good.

Central BBQ

Memphis is overflowing with BBQ and everyone has their favorite place. I like Central BBQ. Also, BBQ nachos are the thing in Memphis and Central does this RIGHT. Do what the locals do and ask for nachos on the homemade potato chips. Whoa.

Local

A hip gastro pub with 2 locations in Memphis. Local has a great beer selections and some fun twists on southern food. My favorite was the fried mac and cheese. Amazingly cheesy and heart attack inducing delight.

Arepas and Salsa

Legit Venezuelan food in Memphis?? If you don't believe me that try it for yourself. 

Cafe Keough

A beautiful european style cafe on main street. A great place for a sandwich, coffee, or fun afternoon cocktail on the sidewalk.

Drinks

Tamps & Tap

This was my favorite hang out spot in Memphis...this may be due to it's rustic pnw vibe filled with deep leather chair, local art and tree stump tables. T & T makes their own unique simple syrups like thyme and lavender which they turn into delicious drinks like the "it's honey boo boo thyme" latte (honey thyme latte) or a homemade lavender soda. Although if you want coffee go straight for their cold brew - so good. They also serve a good variety of rotating locals beers (any wiseacre is a good bet).  

Wiseacre Brewing

Good local beer. The Anada is a nice hoppy IPA and Tiny Bomb is a winning summer beer.

Molly Fontaine

Have you ever wanted to go to a swanky cocktail house party?? Well here is your chance. Molly's is a beautiful Victorian 3 story house located in a random neighborhood in midtown. Two bars, funky art, vintage furniture, and bourbon. It feels like that sophisticated college house party you never went to with all the gay men of Memphis.

Culture

National Civil Rights Museum

This is honestly the most beautiful, educational, moving museum I've ever been too!! They just reopened after an long renovation and it's amazing. Full of interactive video and audio that tell the untold stories that need to be heard! 

Brooks Museum of Art

This is a small museum but offers a great collection. Dali had a visiting exhibit while I was there. It's only $3 for students and they offer a free audio tour. 

Metal Museum

One of the only museums in the United States dedicated to the preservation of traditional art and craft of metal work. This is a unique experience. The museum is small but more interesting is its beautiful setting right on the Mississippi river and the working resident metal artists.

Five-in-One Social Club

They call themselves kindergarten for adults, it's a small husband and wife ran business that offers fun/funky/odd low-cost art classes. We made tissue paper stained glass candle holders...with stick fingers and tissue paper stuck to our fingers, clothes, and shoes it indeed felt like kindergarten all over again. 

Best View

The Peabody

Take the elevator up to the rooftop and see where "the ducks" live and enjoy the best view of Memphis. In the summer they even have live concerts and happy hours up there. 

Metal Museum

If you are looking for a unique view of the Mississippi then this is the place. See below (too bad it was a stormy day).

.national civil rights museum.

 

I had the honor of visiting the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis. It is NOT to be missed. I was so overwhelmed by the stories told at the NCRM - the joyful, devastating, inspiring, horrifiic stories.

It was a much needed reminder to me how important it is for all of us to tell our own stories and maybe even more important to listen. Whether that stories are screamed - spoken - softly said or whisper, to just listen. To listen with empathy. To listen with respect. To listen and hear what is being shared with us.

We have so much to learn.

.second impressions of memphis.

At a closer look with more time wandering the streets of Memphis I find it to be a friendly city with a small town feel. Because EVERYONE greets you - I have had people interrupt their cellphone conversations to say hello to me. It wouldn't be polite to not address you. It's also a place where people feel obligated to share their lives with you. After experiencing the renowned Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken the waitress told us that in the past year of work she has gained 26 pounds and her dog 10 from the leftovers. In Memphis you are going to meet people. Even in the short time I was there I keep running into people again and again.

Memphis is not a very noticeable city but one that is quietly working, head down. It's a city reestablishing it's reputation. It's a city recreating it's economic growth. It's a city battling segregation. It's a city trying to rewrite it's debilitating history. It's a city that grows on you.

It is a city that demands you to get your hands dirty but will repay your with delicious BBQ, Blues, and that old southern charm.

.the peabody.

The United States is a strange place and The Peabody is a good reminder of that. I went on a Friday to see the changing of the ducks at 11am. I made the mistake of assuming I was going to be one of the few people watching this...only to find that in fact over 100 people and two school groups were packing into the hotel lobby waiting for a sighting of "the ducks". Really? It's an odd tradition. You can read all the duck facts you could ever want here. I don't get it but The Peabody is beautiful and the rooftop has the best view of Memphis (in my opinion).

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the pictures

1. rooftop view

2. this is only about half of the crowd

3. house phones

4. i sneaked into the rooftop bar and had to take a selfie with these 80 mirrors

5. beautiful details of the hotel

.the buildings of downtown memphis.

.first impressions of memphis.

Memphis has a bad rap. When I told people that I was coming to Memphis I got similar reactions to my choice "WHY?" or "It's so dangerous there" and talking with Memphian transplants they have similar stories. The truth is that Memphis has "bad neighborhoods" and extremely poor neighborhoods. Between fancy old southern neighborhoods with hip new "local" restaurants and big old mansions there are long stretches of  empty buildings where business once were, condemned buildings, and a strong police presence.

But on the other hand, Memphis seems to putting a lot of energy into becoming a "happening place" with several festivals every weekend. Last weekend was the Beale St. Music Festival this weekend is the Bristerfest of local music and next weekend is the BBQ festival.

Memphis is also trying to encourage small business and artists through innovated grants that give them a storefront for 6 months alongside hours and hours of  business counseling and all they have to do is play 3 months of discounted rent. wow.

It feels like the city of the haves and have nots. The rich old south with the forgotten remnants of a still present history.

.memphis.

Finally made it in to Memphis and it's lovely. The weather has been "chilly" according to the locals but it feels great to me. I spent the day cruising main street which is lined with beautiful architecture, southern eateries, and the dinging of trolleys. Had lunch at an adorable European style cafe, Cafe Keough and then strolled down by the Mississippi river as wide and murky as ever.

This weekend is the Beale Street Music Festival.

.memphis bound.

I am Memphis bound. I'm so excited to experience Memphis, to continue traveling, and to be back in Tennessee. I haven't been in Tennessee since I was 5. We went to visit my Mom's family in Eastern Tennessee. I went to my first amusement park, Dollywood. 

Have you been to Memphis? Nashville? Do you have any favorite spots? I'd love to hear them.