.day 7.

Yesterday I was trying to take the train to Faro to meet a jewelry designer, Filmeno. It was my first time taking the train here so I decided to trust google maps to find the station. I've been in town a week and have figured out daily life things pretty well despite my lack of Portuguese, until yesterday. I followed all the google directions and ended up on a dead end street in the middle of nowhere and in order to take a right, as google suggested I would've had to climb over a 6 foot stone wall into someone's front yard and climb down a hillside. Whoops! The train station was actually on the other side of town and there was so way to make the train time. I decided to be flexible and enjoy the chance to walk around a different part of town. I started taking any random street and happened upon an older woman surrounded by grocery bags yelling at a front door. As I got closer she started yelling at me in Portuguese, all I understood was something about not being able to get into her house. I didn't know what to do (or how to get away) so I just started speaking to her in Spanish. I was asking her if anyone was home, anyone to call...all the questions just led to more distress so I took her key out of her hand to try the door. The door opened on the first try. She stopped talking immediately, grabbed my face with two hands and gave me a passionate kiss on each cheek. I said "de nada" and turned to walk away (glad to have escaped relatively unharmed. ha ha!) just as her son was coming to help. She told him "oh never mind!! the little spanish girl helped her." 

You can't worry about plans when you travel, things will either happen or they won't. When things don't work out there's always some sweetness or a moment of connect that help you let go of expectations and just be present.

.the people you meet.

I was just finishing up researching some maternal health programs in surrounding countries when this guy who I had said hello to early came up to my office. He asked or rather stated “you’re American, aren’t you?” I said “yes…but how did you know I wasn’t British?” I had only greeted him in Chichewa…so I was interested to hear what his cultural cues were…he replied “because you are friendly and like kids.” Huh? Was I wearing my “I love kids” t-shirt today?  Anyway, he told me how he loved America (of course!) and he had been to Boston…blah blah blah. He was friendly but I was trying to keep the conversations short before he arrived at the inevitable “I need to find an American wife” line. But he said he had a meeting and was off. Phew! Then a few hours later I was headed into Liwonde for a meeting and waiting for a minibus when this bwana (“boss” or fancy) car pulls up and rolls down the window. It’s my new American loving best friend again. He asks if I would like a ride, of course. This is saving me 200 kwacha ($1.20), a plethora of personal space violations, and my olfactory system from the unknown. So I hop in forgetting my past hesitations. Plus it’s only 15 minutes, I can do this! He begins to tell me that he grew up with Americans…"how so?” he tells me “well, Peace Corps volunteers...You’re Peace Corps, right?” So I’m wearing my “I love kids and I’m a granola hippie (aka I didn’t shower because we didn’t have water today) Peace Corps Volunteer” t-shirt. But he goes on to tell me his Peace Corps story:

He grew up basically as an orphan (a child-headed household) and although he was really successful in school he didn’t have the money for fees. So Julie, a Peace Corps Education volunteer in Ntaja went to visit his house one day to ask why he wasn’t enrolled in classes this quarter and he told her. So she made an agreement with him that if he kept up his grades she would cover his fees and books. And he did. He did so well he went on to university to study business. Then successful in his business endeavors he went on to open his very own orphanage in Ntaja caring for 60 children. And just a few years ago he was nominated and elected as a Member of Parliament!  No Joke. What a story right? If this guy isn’t a Peace Corps success story I don’t know what is. I was really inspired by his story and ashamed of my initial hesitations. The world is so fascinating when you open yourself up to it. 

Side Conversation:

When I asked what he was working on he told me he was at the district finalizing a project to build a small bridge just outside of Liwonde. The heavy (late) rains had washed away a crossing bridge that many children use in order to get to school. From which the children were being eaten by the crocodiles! He seemed remorse, but then this happens during rainy season. After the shock wore off it made me ponder how my perspective of normal colors all my experiences.

.everyday conversations.

American: Did you watch the football game today?

Malawian: Yes! It was great.

American: Oh! Your team won? Nice.

Malawian: No, we did not win but we played very well.

American: Err…that’s great?

note to reader: This is a CLASSIC Malawian conversation.  

.everyday conversations.

My new Malawian bestie, Gibson:

Gibson: “are you from Austria?”

Me: “um….no I’m from the US”

Gibson: “oh!! Washington D.C.!!!”

Me: “No, I’m from Washington state it’s on the Westside of the country”

Gibson: “oh! You are from Miami!!”

Me: “err…..somewhere near there!”